For many Parisians “la rentree in Paris” signals the end of their summer, we lay to reste our dreamy elongated holidays and a return to the existential real life parisian dread. The routine of Metro, boulout, do-do drizzles into our hearts with the first grey days of autumn. The pressure of getting the kids back to school, the misery of slipping on raincoats and squeezing back into the metro. Back to the office, back to the school but for me, it means I’m back in Paris.
This little blog post is a celebration of the joys of coming back to Paris in September, I wrote it as an opportunity for you to get a feeling of what life is like here at this time of year. With tips on how to enjoy Paris, what to eat and what to do and to let you know what I’m up to. The olympic circus is dying down, Paris is returning to it’s normal huzzy-buzzy rose tinted joi-de-vivre.
What’s on the Menu for La Rentree in Paris?
What is La Rentrée?
Ah, la rentrée—a term that stirs a mix of anticipation, nostalgia, and a hint of anxiety in the hearts of Parisians. But what exactly does it mean? In simple terms, la rentrée marks the grand return of Parisians to the city after the long, lazy days of the August holiday. It’s the time when the city pulses back to life, as children don their freshly bought fournitures scolaires (school supplies) and head off to their new schools, while adults slip back into the rhythm of work, often with new jobs or fresh ambitions. Unlike in the UK, where the return to school feels almost oppressive, in France, it’s more of a re-entry—much like a spaceship blazing through the atmosphere back to Earth. It’s fiery, sure, but it’s also a necessary transition, filled with energy and potential.
A fascinating side note: France has some of the cheapest school supplies in Europe, making the rentrée scolaire less of a financial burden. There’s a great blog post I found that delves into the economics of this; I’ll make sure to link it for you.
The Flavours of La Rentrée: Summer’s Bounty and Autumn’s Promise
But la rentrée isn’t just about the school bells ringing or office desks filling up again—oh no, it’s also a culinary affair. As summer gently gives way to autumn, the markets of Paris are a testament to this delicious transition. While the days start to cool, there’s still a magnificent glut of summer produce. Raspberries, strawberries, and the last of the summer courgettes still line the stalls, offering a sweet reminder of the season that’s just passed. I got two kilo’s of the most delicious tomatoes from my local organic farmer for a fiver this weekend.
This is also the time when the harvests start to come in—grapes for wine, pumpkins for soups, and of course, the chestnuts that we’ll soon be roasting. It’s a season of abundance, a time when the French countryside and gardens burst with the fruits of the year’s labour. An ancient story that mirrors the patience and persistence needed to cultivate all the wonderful food the French love to eat.
As part of my adventures in France, I’m looking forward to getting involved in the grape harvests as I head to Bordeaux, in the south-west for a private food tour. Intrigued to learn more? Check out my recent blog post on why the Marathon du Medoc is the best food tour in France—a run through vine heavy with grapes ready to burst with tastings galore.
A Harvest of Friends and Memories
One of my absolute favourite things about la rentrée in Paris is the joy of reuniting with friends and family who are returning from their long August holidays. These holidays, often spent in the idyllic countryside or along the sun-drenched coasts, are a quintessential part of French life. The French are known for these extended breaks, and it’s during this time that many Parisians reconnect with their roots—whether it’s visiting family in Provence, Brittany, or the Dordogne.
When they return to the capital, they don’t come back empty-handed. Oh no, they bring with them the bountiful treasures of their travels—the freshest produce, artisanal cheeses, homemade jams, aromatic herbs, and perhaps a few bottles of local wine. These are the spoils of their summer, lovingly gathered from parents’ gardens, grandparents’ orchards, or a favourite local market. It’s as if the flavours of all of France converge in Paris during la rentrée, creating a rich tapestry of tastes that tell the story of summer.
This tradition of bringing back regional delicacies is one of the many things that make la rentrée special. It’s not just about returning to the daily grind; it’s about sharing the warmth and abundance of the holiday with those you’ve missed. You gather with friends and family, not only to catch up on the latest gossip but to share these delicious finds—be it a jar of honey from a rural farm or garlic that’s still fragrant with the scent of the Mediterranean sun.
In many ways, these reunions, flavoured with the gifts of summer, embody the true spirit of la rentrée. It’s a time to reconnect, to relish in the simple pleasures of good food and good company, and to carry the warmth of the summer into the cooler days ahead. For me, this is what makes September in Paris truly magical. The city comes alive with the shared memories of summer, bottled and preserved, ready to be savoured together as we step into the new season.
What to Eat in Paris in September
September in Paris is a month of contrasts—the warmth of summer lingers, but there’s a crispness in the air that hints at the autumn to come. As Parisians dodge the occasional showers, they know how to make the most of the lingering long evenings, turning every moment into an opportunity to indulge.
Street Food Festivals and Paris Plage
For those who revel in the vibrant street culture of Paris, September is a time to explore the many food festivals that pop up around the city and its outskirts. These festivals are a feast for the senses, with stalls offering everything from sizzling galettes to merguez sausages, perfect for grabbing a bite on the go. While Paris Plage may be winding down, the budget-conscious still take advantage of the relaxed vibe, grabbing a cold bière or a vin blanc to enjoy by the Seine, making the most of the final days of street-side drinking.
Plenty of tips for you on how to ensure you have the perfect Aperos during the last day of the summer over on our blog about street drinking in Paris.
Aperos and Terraces
For those with a little more cash to spare, September is the perfect time to savour an apéro on a Parisian terrace. As the workday winds down, colleagues and friends gather to share a planche of cheese, charcuterie, and perhaps a few cornichons, toasting to the new beginnings that la rentrée brings. A top spot for this is 17:45, where you can build your own apéro board, selecting from a delightful range of French cheeses, cured meats, and fresh bread, all paired perfectly with a glass of wine or a crisp kir.
The Return of Game: Hunting Season Opens
September also marks the opening of the hunting season in Normandy and the surrounding districts of Île-de-France. This means that game—rich, flavourful, and quintessentially autumnal—begins to make its return to Parisian tables. Look out for dishes featuring gibier (game), such as roasted venison, wild boar stews, and pâtés made from perdreau (partridge). These robust dishes are perfect for pairing with the deeper reds that start to replace the lighter wines of summer.
Whether you’re sipping wine by the Seine or enjoying a hearty meal in a cosy bistro, September in Paris offers a culinary experience that’s as rich and varied as the season itself. The city’s love for good food and drink never fades—it simply evolves with the changing light and the shifting temperatures.
The Culinary Calendar at Eat Like the French
As for us at Eat Like the French, la rentrée marks a season of change as well. I’m diving back into the Parisian culinary scene, on the hunt for a new kitchen to call home. At the same time, I’m reshaping our private food tours. Moving forward, our bespoke itineraries will allow you to pay for your food directly, while you pay me for the curation and my time. This approach gives you more flexibility and the chance to truly indulge in what Paris has to offer at your own pace. Of course, our all-inclusive tours remain available for those who prefer a more guided experience.
We’re also relaunching some of our most popular products, with a focus on boosting bookings for Paris food tours. Being here, right in the heart of it all, allows me to offer a more authentic, in-the-moment experience, something that resonates deeply with the essence of la rentrée—a fresh start, a renewed focus, and the promise of something wonderful.
Embracing La Rentrée: A Time of Renewal
To wrap it all up, la rentrée is a time of year that I genuinely love. While the UK seems to treat this time with a kind of grim resignation, the French approach it with a sense of renewal. It’s a time to shake off the summer haze and step boldly into the next chapter, whether that’s in the classroom, the office, or the kitchen. So, as Paris hums back to life and the leaves start to turn, let’s embrace the fiery re-entry of la rentrée and all the promise it brings.
