If you’re looking for the perfect weekend away from Paris, here’s how we spend 48 slow, disconnected and delicious hours in this underrated corner of Normandy.
For our little family, an escape from Paris has to include a few essential ingredients: market discoveries, belly‑busting meals, activities to wear out our small human, and quiet afternoons by a wood fire.
Let me take you with us on a little tour, a visit to our friends place in La Perche. You can stay there too, they run an amazing family friendly space with tree houses for you to stay in.
*this post is not sponsored or in anyway affiliated to them. It’s written by me, as a chef and food tour guide living in paris for a decade sharing one of the little gems I love about living here.
As the train pulls out of Paris, the busy buzzy grey patchwork of the suburban skyline slowly dissolves. Apartment blocks give way to open skies and the wide wheat fields of Normandy. The horizon becomes dotted with copses of trees, characterful church spires, and cows heavy with the creamy milk that becomes the Camembert we love so much.
Follow me as I share the (not‑so) secret corner of France that has been our family’s escape for the last decade — a slow, family‑friendly weekend for when the pomp of Paris starts to feel a little too loud.
Table of Contents
Family Tips for Nailing the Escape from Paris
Over the years we’ve learned a few tricks that make the whole weekend smoother — and help the escape feeling start the moment you leave Paris.
- Bring an apéro for the train. “Train-pero” Skip the brutal station mark‑ups. We usually grab a couple of half bottles of wine and beer, some cherry tomatoes, carrot sticks and snacks at our local supermarket. Don’t forget a couple of plastic glasses. There is not a restaurant car on these small local trains!
- Feed the kids before boarding. Yes, sometimes that means cold pizza or even the dreaded McDo at the station. But nobody wants tired, hungry kids arriving in the countryside at 9pm.
- Give yourself lots of time. Friday evening on the Paris metro is chaos. Lines get disrupted and platforms are packed. Use the RATP app and leave earlier than you think you need to.
- Charge the headphones and preload the iPad. Download shows before you leave. If your kids don’t get travel sick, it’s also a great moment for them to finish homework before earning some screen time.
- Bring a small gift for your hosts. Something they can’t easily get in the countryside always goes down well. If you forget, the La Toque cuivree’s canelé stand at Montparnasse is a lifesaver — they sell a sparkling rosé that everyone seems to love.
Why Paris Loves to Escape to Le Perche
Every Friday evening at Montparnasse station you can spot them: Parisians clutching weekend bags, kids in tow, that slightly frazzled end‑of‑week energy mixed with the quiet hope of disconnecting for a couple of days. Or you might never see them, picking up the little ones straight from school, car already stuffed with everything they need, trying to beat the traffic.
A little more than an hour later the landscape does its magic — apartment blocks fade into orchards, forests and grazing horses. Welcome to Le Perche.
People come here for simple reasons. It’s affordable, easy to reach, and there’s always something to do. But more than that, the place has a way of reconnecting you to the land. The food is simple, the seasons matter, and life moves at a pace that Paris seems to have forgotten.
Many Parisians have family roots here or a small country house tucked away down a hedgerow lane.
We discovered the region through a close friend whose family has lived here for generations, and through them we began to understand the quiet rhythm of the place.
Some of my most vivid memories involve his Mamie France. She cooked extraordinary apple tarts in an ancient wood‑fired oven and — entirely unofficially — distilled a Calvados so good it still makes me briefly consider breaking my sobriety for a tiny glass, softened with a splash of warm water.
That’s the spirit of Le Perche. In winter it’s long walks through cold forests followed by heavy stews by the fire. In summer it’s slow lunches on sunny terraces, children running around village squares, and long conversations with locals who seem to have all the time in the world.
Le Perche sits about two hours from Paris and stretches across Normandy and parts of the Centre‑Val de Loire. Much of the region falls within the Parc Naturel Régional du Perche, a protected landscape of forests, orchards, horse farms, and small villages.
It’s an easy countryside escape from the capital — close enough for a spontaneous weekend but rural enough to feel like another world.
Where to Stay: Cabanes dans les Arbres de la Grande Noë
Before diving into the itinerary, it’s worth talking about where to base yourself. Our personal links to the region leaves us with an absolutely amazing place to stay, the beuty of it is you too can visit. The treehouses, know as les Cabanes dans les Arbres de la Grande Noë, a magical family retreat run by our friends Agnès and Thomas.
Set on a stunning 135‑hectare family domaine beside the family château, the property offers something rare: the feeling of being properly immersed in nature while still having everything a family needs for a relaxed weekend.
A visit to the château is rare, but it doesn’t matter the main attraction is exactly what it sounds like — treehouses. Real ones. Some sit just a few metres above the ground near the farm and play areas, while others perch 10–16 metres up in the branches for a more adventurous escape.
We have stories of some of my closest friends being stuck in the tallest one during a rain storm. So I can attest they are incredibly safe, even if you have to climb up after way too much Calva.
You can choose from cosy romantic cabins hidden in the château park, to the most spectacular Chêne Fou, a three‑level treehouse with two cabins and a panoramic terrace.
The domaine itself is wonderfully family‑friendly: pétanque, ping‑pong, outdoor games, baby‑foot, a small bar, and walking circuits through the woods. Kids love FilO’Parc, a giant aerial net park in the trees, as well as the Arche aux Énigmes, an indoor escape‑game adventure designed for younger explorers. Perfect for when it’s raining.
The cabins have no heating, so the season runs from late March to mid‑October — but that’s part of the charm. Crisp mornings, birds in the trees, and the quiet sense that you’ve stepped into something slightly enchanted.
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In the morning a traditional breakfast arrives in a basket at the bottom of your treehouse: hot drinks, fresh bread, apple juice, and simple treats from the region.
You pull it up on a rope into the branches — one of those small magical moments that makes the whole experience feel like something out of a childhood story.
If you end up booking a stay, say hello to Agnès and Thomas from me. You’ll almost certainly bump into them at some point during the weekend.
Our Perfect 48 Hours in Le Perche
Once you arrive, the rhythm of the weekend takes over quickly. Markets replace supermarkets, long lunches replace rushed dinners, and the countryside dictates the pace of the day. Here’s how our family usually spends a perfect 48 hours in Le Perche — arriving on Friday evening and drifting slowly back to Paris on Sunday afternoon.
Friday Evening: The Escape Begins
The journey starts at Gare Montparnasse. Le Perche is easily reached by train from Paris Montparnasse to Nogent‑le‑Rotrou, making it one of the simplest countryside escapes from the capital. The train slides out of Paris and, before long, the city fades into farmland. In spring the fields glow bright yellow with colza. Villages appear between patches of forest, church towers rising above stone houses.
Arriving in the Perche feels like stepping into a different rhythm. The air smells faintly of wood smoke and apples.
Dinner on the first night is usually simple and rustic — a village auberge, a glass of cider, and something pork-heavy on the plate.
Top Tip – Booking train tickets early and using family discount cards from SNCF can seriously reduce the cost of your weekend!
Saturday Morning: Exploring the Markets and Villages of Le Perche
Morning in the Perche starts slowly. Coffee, good bread, maybe a slice of yesterday’s tart, and then into the car to hunt down one of the region’s markets.
Mortagne-au-Perche
Often considered the gastronomic heart of the region, Mortagne is our go‑to. We love getting lost in the crooked medieval backstreets before the market properly wakes up — the smell of bread drifting from the boulangerie, shutters creaking open, café chairs scraping across the pavement.
The market spreads out in front of the church and sells a little bit of everything: baskets of vegetables from tiny organic market gardens, fragrant herbs, local honey, roast chickens turning slowly on spits, and occasionally the wonderfully unexpected — yes, even Vietnamese street food in the middle of rural Normandy.
Buy your vegetables straight from the farmers who grew them. Pick up a fresh goat’s cheese from one of the shepherds — the kind that still tastes faintly of the meadow. Then head into the covered market hall where the real treasures live: slabs of pâté, ropes of sausage, and the region’s famous boudin noir.
Of course no trip to the market is complete without a small apéro stop. We usually end up at Les Vins Diou, a wonderful little caviste where you can grab a glass and stock up on a bottle or two for the weekend.
You may also want to explore these nearby villages:
Bellême
A beautiful hilltop village filled with antique shops, quiet cafés, and sweeping views of the surrounding countryside.
Nogent-le-Rotrou
A larger town dominated by its imposing château and home to one of the region’s liveliest markets.
Saturday Lunch: The True Taste of Le Perche
The food of Le Perche is rustic and deeply tied to the land. The cuisine of the region is shaped by what grows and grazes here: boudin noir, goat’s cheese, cider, Calvados, organic beef and game all play starring roles. Pork, apples, charcuterie and slow cooking dominate the table, but the region has far more to offer adventurous food lovers.
You’ll find excellent local goat’s cheese — one of my favourites is Le Trèfle, a delicate little cheese that tastes like the fields it comes from. The region is also known for wonderful organic beef, wild game for those who enjoy the hunting tradition, fragrant honey from local beekeepers, and beautiful summer fruits when the weather warms.
And of course… apples. Apples are the backbone of the region’s cuisine — in tarts, in cider, in Calvados, and quietly present in dishes throughout the year.
Boudin Noir de Mortagne
The region is famous for its boudin noir — a rich, deeply flavoured blood sausage traditionally served with apples.
Tripe and Nose-to-Tail Cooking
Le Perche cooking embraces the whole animal. Dishes made with tripe and other humble cuts speak to the region’s agricultural roots.
Saturday Afternoon: Cycling and Exploring the Perche Countryside
Afternoons are best spent exploring slowly — cycling along quiet roads, wandering forest paths, or browsing antique shops in small villages.
One lovely discovery that more visitors are starting to stumble upon is Brasserie du Perche, which is easily walkable from the cabanes. Set beside a beautiful little lake, it’s the perfect relaxed stop after a bike ride or countryside walk. The brewery serves delicious craft beers, the atmosphere is wonderfully laid‑back, and families gather around the water while kids run around the grass. It’s one of those places that perfectly captures the easy, friendly spirit of the region.
The countryside here invites you to take your time. Much of this landscape sits within the Parc Naturel Régional du Perche, a protected natural park known for its forests, orchards, quiet cycling lanes and traditional farms.
Saturday Evening: Long Dinners
Dinner in the Perche often stretches late into the evening. Candlelit tables, local cider or poiré, and hearty countryside cooking.
Seasonal ingredients dominate the menu — mushrooms in autumn, game during the hunting season, and apples almost everywhere.
Sunday Morning: Treehouses and Farm Life
Our favourite place to stay is La Grande Noë, an organic working farm where treehouses sit beside an old château.
Morning here begins quietly. A breakfast basket is delivered to the foot of your tree — fresh bread, hot drinks, apple juice and simple local treats — which you pull up on a rope into the branches while the forest slowly wakes around you.
Families come here for a slow countryside experience. Children disappear into the trees while adults sip coffee, cider or calva and pretend to supervise. Horses graze in nearby fields, walking trails wind through the woods, and the whole domaine feels wonderfully disconnected from the rush of city life.
Recently the farm added new activities including a small escape room and climbing adventures in the trees.
Sunday Lunch: One Last Taste of the Perche
Sunday lunch is the final indulgence before heading back to Paris. I would recommend booking a table in one of the many village brasseries scattered across the region. We’re particularly fond of Café du Commerce in Longny, but half the pleasure of Le Perche is discovering your own favourite spot. Settle in for pork dishes, apples, cider, and one last slow countryside meal — and explore the area at your own rhythm.
Sunday Afternoon: The Gentle Return to Paris
By Sunday afternoon the rhythm of the countryside begins to loosen its grip and the quiet migration back to Paris starts. We’ve learned that heading back a little earlier makes the transition easier — the train is calmer, the unpacking less frantic, and the start of the week a little gentler.
The return journey usually involves bags filled with market treasures: cider, bread, cheese, maybe a wedge of goat’s cheese or something indulgent from the butcher. Dinner that evening is rarely complicated — just a simple spread built from the culinary haul we’ve brought back from Le Perche.
It’s our way of easing back into Parisian life while holding on to the flavours and slower rhythm of the countryside for just a little longer. If you return to the capital still hungry for real French food experiences, you can always continue the journey back in Paris on one of our chef‑led explorations to eat like the French.
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From the bustling streets of Paris to the heat of a professional kitchen, my life has always revolved around food. A Brit who moved to France at 16, I trained as a chef in a Parisian palace kitchen at 18 and have spent decades cooking, eating, and living like the French.
By day, I run kitchens and events, but Eat Like The French is my side hustle—a way to share my passion for French food through writing and food tours. After a detour into tech recruitment, I returned to what I love most: cooking and storytelling—one dish, one tour, and one bite at a time.
FAQ: Planning a Weekend in Le Perche
How far is Le Perche from Paris?
Le Perche is roughly two hours from Paris. The easiest route is the train from Gare Montparnasse to Nogent‑le‑Rotrou, followed by a short drive or bike ride into the countryside.
Is Le Perche good for a weekend trip from Paris?
Yes. Its proximity to Paris, quiet countryside, excellent markets and traditional food culture make it one of the easiest and most rewarding slow‑travel escapes from the capital.
What food is Le Perche known for?
Le Perche cuisine is rustic and deeply tied to the land. Specialities include boudin noir de Mortagne, goat’s cheese, cider, Calvados, organic beef, game and apples used in everything from tarts to cider and brandy.
What are the best villages to visit in Le Perche?
Some of the most charming villages include Mortagne‑au‑Perche, Bellême and Nogent‑le‑Rotrou, each offering markets, cafés and beautiful Norman countryside.
Is Le Perche family‑friendly?
Very much so. With forests, cycling routes, farms and places like Cabanes dans les Arbres de la Grande Noë, the region is perfect for families looking for a slow countryside weekend.